Access to these spots is from Great Fall National Park in Virginia, Great Falls and C&O Canal National Historic Park in Maryland, or Angler's Inn in Maryland.
Access Points:
Maryland:
- Sandy Beach. Park at Great Falls National Park (fee area), reached via MacAuthur Blvd. in Montgomery County, MD. Carry 1/4 mile south along the C & O Canal towpath; take trail on the right that leads to Sandy Beach putin.
- Angler's Inn. Reach via MacAuthur Blvd. Park in one of three gravel or dirt lots across from the Angler's Inn, a fine restaurant. Carry across the canal, then 100 feet south on the towpath, then right down to the shore. From the river, the beach is easily seen on river left.
Virginia:
- Fisherman's Eddy. Park at Great Falls National Park Virginia (fee area). From lower lot, carry across picnic area upstream toward steep trail that leads to Fisherman's Eddy.
- Rocky Island. From Great Falls, Virginia, walk south on trail from picnic area to a small footbridge and walk left down the rocky gully access Rocky Island surfing waves.
All gage readings below refer to the Little Falls gauge.
(703) 260-0305
(301) 320-7325
For the Internet savvy, try:
http://md.usgs.gov/rt-cgi/gen_stn_pg?station=01646500
<http://sunweb1.er.usgs.gov/rt-cgi/gen_stn_pg?station=01646508>
The Spots
FishBowl, also known as The Shoe: best at levels between 2.7 to 3.2 feet.
*****
The FishBowl is formed by the convergence of the Horseshoe slab with the Streamers slab. It's a short hike up over the O-Deck peninsula to get to the bowl. We put in at a rocky cove and ferry across the Horseshoe current to an eddy below the Streamers on river right. When this spot is above 3.3 feet it is difficult to get back in the staging eddy on river right. The strong current usually forces you to eddy out in the eddy below the Flake/Spout. An accomplished squirter can easily wing down at this interface in either direction, a regular mystery charc will be to the right spinning with the current and backcut mystery charc will be to the left against the current. At any level in order to have success, you need to sink early, before you get to the current coming from the Horseshoe. There's a little curler that forms at the seam, you need to have your boat already under when you get to the curler. The FishBowl isn't torquey except at the higher levels above 3.2. Its actually very safe compared to Bermuda or Simple Pleasures, or most spots on the Potomac for that matter. I know of no one who's touched bottom or encountered submerged rocks. This is one of the Potomac's premier spots for roaming under water. A roaming mystery is where you travel some distance underwater. The key to a roaming mystery move at Fishbowl is to sink early and wing down to the subsurface Horseshoe current. This charc will push you towards the middle of the river, so when you resurface, focus immediately on getting back in the eddy. This is my favorite mystery spot on the Potomac, because it doesn't usually boss me around (except at higher levels) and the scenery is spectacular, perfect for a Mystery Circle.
"The Mystery Circle proceeds like a revolving oval of squirt boats. The upstream-most boat will drop into the seam and become one with the river as the last mystery-chaser is emerging from underwater some ways downstream. The Mystery Circle is the portal to the Mystery Trance, where the boats go around and around in circles for hours with few words exchanged…"
Jim Snyder from "The Mystery Trance"
At lower levels, the wave/hole above the seam becomes better for surfing so you must defend the staging area or surface kayakers will cut right over the seam to get back in line. If it gets too busy, just head on down to Bermuda, because that's where the best downtime will be. Downtime is slang squirters use for time spent in the mystery move. Harris Haynie, Dave Collins, and I would often do these aerobic mystery sessions. This is how it works: After dipping in the first time, attain up to the top of the seam instead of paddling back into the eddy, and dip over and over until you need to rest. We'd often dip 8 to 10 times; occasionally dipping simultaneously one at the upstream part of the seam while the other is on the downstream portion of the seam. We first began going up to The FishBowl while looking for new places to play below 3.3 feet after the Fishladder waves in Portage were no longer good for surfing after the twin floods of 1995. We first started calling this spot "The Shoe" as an abbreviation on Horseshoe, the spectacular last drop of Great Falls on the Maryland side. The FishBowl seems more appropriate, cause the overlooks on both sides of the river can get quite crowded with tourist eager to check out the kayakers playing the river. Last Mothers' Day, there were probably hundreds of tourists lined up to watch our Mystery Circle.
Fisherman's Eddy
fickle at all levels best at 3.4 to 3.9
**
This is the eddy directly below the Observation Deck 2 & 3 on river right. This is great warm-up eddyline at any level. Downtime can be achieved by tapping into a wave move charc in the wave train or by screwing down at the wall. Beware of squirting too close to the wall; it's not a good spot to be vertical as its not very deep. The wall mystery charc is safest at 3.4 to 3.9 feet. The next eddy down was the scene of the Whitney Shields pinning mentioned by Eric Lindberg in a Jim Synder interview for the book ``Squirt Boating and Beyond.''
Dunkin' Stronuts aka Running Errands best at 2.8 to 3.6
**
This great little eddyline is above Portage/Fishladder on the river right. It's at the top to the small islands just little below the wall at O-Deck. I was playing at this unnamed spot with Gree Herring, Amy Gibson, and Dave Collins one day May 2000, I commented that it didn't have a name and Gree pipes in "How about Dunkin' Stronuts." Sarah Anderson informed me that this spot has another name "Running Errands." The name comes from a young lady who shall remain nameless who gave me this excuse for not paddling with me, but was seen on the river paddling instead of doing her chores. Watch your charc, you never know who's looking.
Bermuda Triangle: best at 2.6 - 3.0 feet
*****
Bermuda Triangle is formed by the convergence of the Fishladder slab with the Potomac's main slab. Look for a good-sized eddy in front of the rock that forms the point at the mouth of the Fishladder current on river left. Peel out of the staging eddy and head toward the upstream-most point of the convergence, there's a small curler at the optimum spot. As the river levels drop, the sweet spot moves downstream. Mysteries can be achieved either regular or back-cut, but the back-cut seems to work best. Often during the best mysteries you'll travel underwater upstream a little when you use the back cut charc. On those really long mysteries, you'll probably pop up just in time to make the eddy. At many levels, we often ferry across the river after re-entry to avoid being swept below the staging eddy and this also allows you to practice your mush moves. A little water pours out of the back of the eddy at higher levels. If you get flushed downstream, an amphibian over rock attainment is used to get back up to the staging eddy. The upstream fringes of Bermuda are toyed with at many higher levels, but beware and keep your up button ready to fire. I don't commit to a serious mystery charc until the levels are at or below 2.9. Extremely long and dangerous downtime can occur above 3.0 feet; there are many stories of scary downtime at and above this level. We haven't permanently lost any boaters here, but remember it is Bermuda Triangle.
Whitney named Bermuda, he called me after a session of mind bending DT to describe what he had tapped into, I can still hear the excitement and passion in his voice. It's called roaming now, we just cruised deep, always tryin' to get the charc that sent you up stream for the easy return to the eddy.
mre.
Stro, you don't discuss the entrance from either side of the fishladder flow. Any new school thoughts.
That's funny you should ask, I forgot to mention that access can be gained equally from left or right side of the fishladder flow. As a matter of fact the right side of fishladder flow is the preferred at higher levels.
Simple Pleasures: best at 2.6 - 3.1 feet
*****
Simple Pleasures is at the downstream corner on the Maryland side (river left) of S-Turn. This spot has a very quirky entry move, which must be performed approximately one boat width or so off the rock. The move most of the locals use is a backcut mystery charc. This charc involves paddling hard out of the eddy with your bow up. Once you've reach the spot next to and about boat width away from the rock, do a sudden forward weight throw to catch the bow under water. Then do fast rear pry on the right side, once your head is under, you'll need to start spinning immediately or the currents will have their way with you. Extremely long, dark, and deep mysteries are possible here. Beware! This spot will draw you down quite deep very quickly. I've experienced my longest and deepest mysteries here, many on the order of thirty seconds or more with depths over 10 feet deep. I've heard of folks tapping rocks only occasionally. At the higher levels, water pours thru a slot next to the wall, this will affect your entrance charc. I prefer the lower levels of 2.7, when the slot is dry, because it's an easier entrance charc and it's also less turbulent once you get under.
This is another spot found in a Projet, I named it Simple Pleasures because the full potential was so difficult to achieve, yet so simple when you hit it. My preferred entry took more effort but gave consistent results - mush move not a true Mystery. As I recall there is a long seam leading into the sweet spot Stro describes, the key on the Mush is to enter the current high near the rock (that by now must have a name, named below I see) bow up high, as you enter the seam smash the bow down and about chest deep you should be near where a back cut charc would put you. After you drop a foot or so reverse the spin and enjoy the simple pleasures of life.
One of my favorite entrances to Simple Pleasures is without a boat. With a life jacket on leave the eddy, dip the up stream shoulder, catch the water on your back and sink. The wild thing here is that this will take you to the bottom - small boulder garden somewhat deep, plan on popping your ears on the way down - and keep you there, true roaming. The down draft is so strong that swimming with a life jacket you still have to push off to return to normal life.
mre.
Most of the good mystery spots on the Potomac are on the river right, so most Potomac squirters are stronger at spinning underwater to the right. After a visit to the Ottawa Jimmicup, I vowed to practice my lefty moves. This venue is probably perfect for a regular lefty mystery charc, but our weakness probably led to the predominately used backcut charc.
``For plastic boaters and intrepid (or unaware squirt boaters as has happened to yours truly as you can attest) watch out for this spot at 5 - 6 feet as the whirlpool will suck you way down and rattle your nerves and possibly try to drown you. I was sucked down, flipped over, rolled up and was still on my way down deep. Surfaced at the wall under your boat (whack)."
Greg Steiger
I remember that day, Greg was seriously spooked. I've had a few sessions that ended quickly after too much success with depth and time spent deep. I've also had many a session where I was skunked and could barely get my head under. This spot is perfectly suited to perform some roaming and mystery circles.
"How about the pourover at the top of the S-Turn above Simple Pleasures you ferry over to attain the S-Turn. At the right level its great vertical blow blastin' and as you are smiling downstream allow your boat to work over to your right (VA) and then you and your boat will get sucked down, flatten out and come up down stream. It is really the way to get out of the blast. I think there is a name for this rock forming the pourover (Molly Hatchet)."
Greg Steiger
Triple Pleasures - best at 2.8 feet
*****
The Triple Pleasures usually occur during the summer when three great mystery spots are all going off at once: The FishBowl, Bermuda Triangle, and Simple Pleasures. The best level for all three is right at or a little below 2.9 on the Little Falls gage. When the river is at 2.9 and below, the Fish Bowl and Bermuda are the best spots. As it drops to 2.8, the FishBowl is still good, but Bermuda is best and Simple Pleasures is good. When the level is 2.7, the FishBowl is usually crowded with Rodeo kayakers, so surf and sink a little then head down to Bermuda Triangle and Simple Pleasures because that's where the real downtime is to be had. These three spots are classic Potomac mystery spots and should be on every serious squirters "must do" list.
Watkin's Wedge: best at 5.? To 6.?
**
Watkins's Wedge is upstream of the Sandy Beach put in (MD side) at the top of the Maryland Channel just below the Fishladder. The rock that forms a pourover at the top of the channel is the spot. I've only played here a few times, but seem to recall using a regular charc just far enough away from the rock to miss its sloping edge. The suction towards this pourover is very strong and makes lining up a tricky task. From low water scouting of this spot, I've seen that you don't want to travel downstream very far as there are rocks looming. I was wondering if this is the rock that Eric Lindberg mentions in his interview for ``Squirt Boating and Beyond.'' Billy Ray Watkins was once stuck here when the suction of the pourover pulled him sideways into its grasp, hence our name of this mystery spot.
If this is the rocky island side entrance, it is definitely the spot, I'm not sure it deserves a name, it's lethal.
mre
Terrapin Station - best at 7.2 feet
***
This spot is located across and slightly downstream river right from the Sandy Beach put-in below Great Falls, MD. Use a regular charc breaking right to achieve truly powerful mysteries. Whitney named this one shortly after seeing a particularly good Dead show. This spot is suitable for slalom and rodeo boat mysteries. When Terrapin is going off, Tim's Wave (old school Dave's Wave? Most excellent wave moves! Stro, I'm confused here, as I see it Dave's wave is across from sandy beach, Terrapin Station is down stream and then Tim's wave would be the fist wave encountered when attaining the channel) down in the Maryland channel should be good for surfing as well as a myriad of spots downstream like Dead Cow, Corner Hole, and Skull Island.
I suspect we rode Terripin at higher levels, things were pumpin'. The power was intense, the favorite move was a cross bow draw that would set the boat at about 60 degrees, this would help the river form a whorl pool and instantly suck you down, deep for a long roam into a black attack. Whitney called it a Torque Screw. Terripin was the only place you could get a Projet to perform like that, wild, deep and fast
mre
"I saw Whitney, god bless his soul, disappear into the grasp of this eddy line and wrote him off for gone. We watched and watched and no Whitney. Still no Whitney, still no Whitney. Fuck, where is he, we wondered a bit spooked. Suddenly he burst to the surface in a radical exit charc, face beet-red, eyes wide shut, and speaking in tongues. The water was real brown and muddy and cold. Usually when this spot is up the river is brown and cold and strong so if you fully commit to the mystery when the level is prime, not a half-assed attempt but a full-pledged committed attempt with a perfect knee to hip transition when the surge is right, you are a really brave submarine captain. Get ready Captain Nemo. Good place for O2 tanks or a good set of lungs. Plan on being able to hold your breath for a while in cold water, don't pass out."
Greg Steiger
Madder and Madder - 3.6 - 4.3 feet (<12000 cfs) best at 4.0
****
It's off the Virginia Shore (river left) just 50 yards above Rocky Island Waves. Begin with a regular charc to the right and a shallow entry directly next to the rock. Only do three turns underwater at the most and don't work on the vertical plane or chances are you'll meet a shallow rock that waits ten feet downstream. I was checking this spot recently at O-Deck level 3.67 and was successful, and I wasn't whacking any rocks in my shorter Asylum while working vertically at normal levels. Eric Lindburg and Whitney Shields first showed me this spot. Eric would say, "I better get going cause Barb is gonna get 'madder & madder' the longer I stay here."
"Very best at night solo when it is really dark down there and up there. Don't f*&k up.''
Greg Steiger
Rocky Island - best at 3.8 - 5.? Feet
****
Rocky Island offers awesome downtime possibilities on the eddyline or wave train. The eddyline charc can be difficult while crowded with surfers waiting in the eddy. A little polite explanation and a shout of "eddyline" usually work. Regular or back cuts work here and it's very suitable for roaming, but the entry can be fickle. Watch out upon re-entry, as others may be oblivious to your departure. It's a difficult staging area to defend. I remember one day at Rocky, Whitney was there in his new T-Bird working on his mysteries and I asked him why he wasn't surfin' much. Realizing it now, he was under the spell of the mystery trance, but he mumbled something about squirtin' up on the Ottawa River recently and that Rocky Wave couldn't compare. Plus getting downtime was too much fun. At that point in my squirt career, I was afraid of downtime and was in awe of Whitney's skills. A few years later, I would come to understand that spell and also visit the awesome eddylines and waves of the Ottawa River.
Little Sweet Cheeks aka Ricky's Cheeks best at 3.0 - 3.8 Feet
**
This spot is very similar to Sweet Cheeks on the Gauley. It's at the seam next to the first wave at Rocky Island Rapid. Enter the seam on a steep right-breaking charc next to the submerged rock. Wing down quickly and wait for the double suck. The spot to look for at lower levels is just behind the first wave, where the double suck happens at higher levels. Respectable and safe downtime can be expected. Ricky Rodriguez showed me this spot, he hated the name [Ricky's Cheeks], but he hasn't come up with another one [other than Little Sweet Cheeks] so it's stuck so far.
Top Secret - best at 3.6 - 4.0 feet
*****
Top Secret is located just downstream from Rocky Island. It's a pourover hole in the middle of the river. I'd tell you more, but protocol called for me to only show folks this spot, you can't tell them exactly where it is. The move is a regular charc breaking right. Surf across the wave/hole and align with the current, you should wave move to wing down quickly and roam maybe 10 feet before exiting. There's a pourover downstream that looms, however everybody I've seen pop up before reaching the rock. Suitable for a mystery circle, Ricky Rodriguez showed me this spot in the height of the Potomac squirt craze. He was quite secretive about the location of its pleasures hence the name; not to mention the joking attempt to hide this spot from the CIA squirters.
If this is the island that forms below rocky on the attainers left side of the island it has a great chest deep mystery line - no name
mre
Shakedown Street -best at 5.7 to 6.9
**
Somewhere above the Difficult Run Chutes, this spot comes into play when the Center Chute Hole at Difficult Run is prime, and gets even better as it rises to Scull Island Waves & Dead Cow Hole. It's just downstream from the waterfall that drains from the C&O Canal. I recall Whitney Shields and Cory Marshall raving about the mush moves they'd just done while we were playing below.
Wicked Wanda: best at 6.?
***
Wanda is about two eddies down from the big bend of the river in Mather Gorge on the Maryland side (river left). Use a left breaking charc and watch out for the double suck.
``There is nothing like a big wet kiss on the lips by Wicked Wanda. Whitney showed me Wicked Wanda and we loved this spot. It forms when Dave's Wave is cookin' and is formed by water coming over a rock ledge on river left I think two eddies down from the left turn of the river below the Mather Gorge at the Jumps. It will give you a true double suck, taking you down once like at madder and madder, then as you begin to rise to the surface if you keep spinning it will suck you down again. Never seemed lethal or scary like Terrapin, looked that way to more timid onlookers but Wanda does not want to hurt those that give her a kiss on the lips.''
Greg Steiger
Amy's Secret - best at 3.3 to 3.6 feet
**
Amy's Secret is just upstream of the Difficult Run Chutes on the Maryland side. It's on the attainer's right side of the rock about 30 feet off the MD shore. Use a regular charc breaking right, but the backcut move will also work. Squirt Chicks dig this spot, it's perfectly suited for controlled head deep mysteries. I also highly recommend this spot for working on light loops and other tricks. This spot is named for Amy Lueders, who is Greg Steiger's wife and squirt boater supreme.
"I thought I was Amy's secret, but hey this eddy line is a good spot in the summer when the river is low and you want to practice your treadin'. Leave your paddle on a rock and go for it."
Greg Steiger
Maryland Chute at Difficult Run - best at 3.1 - 3.9 feet
****
Maryland Chute is a wave/hole at these levels and mysteries are achieved using the regular mystery charc towards the Maryland shore (surfer right). At 3.2 feet and below, only do three turns underwater at most and don't work on the vertical plane unless you do it immediately or you might whack a shallow rock that waits ten feet downstream.
"Remove your life vest for a much deeper and more sustained ride, in the summer, your chest hairs will wave like cilia and feel really neat if you do it bare-chested like the infamous and notorious HUSK now hiding out in the pueblos of Santa Fe. You will need to dump your craft more often as your paddling jacket will no longer be available as a water barrier. A 360 degree spin or 2 in the wave, then a dive into the wave move for the entry charc will definitely make you flash and wow those struggling to do enders and cartwheels in surface boats but who tend to crash into the rock forming the wave as they are usually clueless as to the slab of green water on the attainers right side of the rock that they (and you) should be aiming for. This slab of green water is actually aligned at an angle flowing from attainers left to right so the correct angle of entry is of ultimate importance.''
Greg Steiger
Don Q's
best at 4.0 - 4.2 (I Think)
*
This spot is located in the Maryland Chute downstream from where the traditional hole forms. The rock that used to stretch and dump water at lower levels is now a pourover. Use a right breaking charc for a quick mystery move. Don Q's is a real tough attainment.
"I was thinking about your list of mystery spots and alas I think we forgot "Don Q's" at the MD Channel that you found when the river is up. I can't remember exactly what the level was but it must be around Center Chute level."
Greg Steiger
Center Chute at Difficult Run - best at 5.0 - 6.7 feet
****
Using the top wave, initiate a wave move charc toward the Maryland shore. At higher levels, (6.5 - 6.7), the main hole can give good downtime using a normal mystery charc. Be aware of the rock that forms the Center Chute hole; use a shallow entry charc!
"I remember that you need big cahunas to get in that hole below 5.2 or so cause' it is sticky and shallow. You can actually also charc to the right. To look really in control, surf the sweet little wave next to the island (does it have a name) while everyone is so concerned and lined up for the big wave. Good place to warm up, then do a wave move to the left, mystery, exit on a screw-up, surf over to the center wave, do a few spins into a few back blasts when the wave breaks, then spin around into a wave move and mystery, again exit on a screw up and do a few cartwheels to show you been watching Snyder videos.''
Greg Steiger
From this attitude we coined the term "Steigering"
Stro, actually steigering is totally ignoring the line in the eddy and cruising to the mystery line - often a move that cuts short your approach and hence the term ``steiger's never prosper''. mre
``Oh, yeah. If you don't like the crowds here floating around like a bunch of plastic crocodilians, if the levels are right (6.2 or above) put in at Sandy Beach/Catfish Cove. Do some throbbing wave move mysteries at Dave's Wave into the whirlpools below and warm up on the undocumented array of eddy lines on the way down to the Center Wave."
Greg Steiger
Pecker Point
best at 4.5 to 5.0
****
The eddyline on the way up to the Chutes at Difficult Run before you attempt the ferry to the big eddy behind the island. It is a cool little eddyline w/ swirlpools. Backcut and regular mystery charc work at this spot.
Mystery Spot Guidelines
| Spot |
Levels |
RATING |
Best Access |
|
| FishBowl |
2.7 to 3.2 |
***** |
Great Falls VA |
|
| Fisherman's Eddy |
3.4 to 3.9 |
** |
Great Falls VA |
|
| Dunkin' Stronuts |
2.9 to 3.6 |
*** |
Great Falls VA |
|
| Bermuda Triangle |
2.6 to 3.0 |
***** |
Great Falls VA or MD |
|
| Simple Pleasures |
2.6 to 3.1 |
***** |
Great Falls VA or MD |
|
| Watkin's Wedge |
5.8 |
** |
Sandy Beach MD |
|
| Terrapin Station |
7.2 |
*** |
Sandy Beach MD |
|
| Madder and Madder |
3.8 to 4.4 |
**** |
Great Falls VA |
|
| Rocky Island |
3.8 to 5.2 |
**** |
Great Falls VA |
|
| Little Sweet Cheeks aka Ricky's Cheeks |
3.0 to 3.8 |
**** |
Great Falls VA |
|
| Top Secret |
3.6 to 4.0 |
***** |
Great Falls VA |
|
| Shakedown Street |
5.7 to 6.9 |
** |
Sandy Beach MD |
|
| Wicked Wanda |
6.? |
*** |
Sandy Beach MD |
|
| Amy's Secret |
3.3 to 3.6 |
** |
Angler's Inn MD |
|
| MD Chute |
3.1 to 3.9 |
*** |
Angler's Inn MD |
|
| Don Q's |
4.0 to 4.3 |
* |
Angler's Inn MD |
|
| Center Chute |
5.0 to 6.7 |
**** |
Angler's Inn MD |
|
| Pecker Point |
4.5 to 5.0 |
**** |
Angler's Inn MD |
|